One of the first watches I reviewed for Microbrand Watch World was from CX Swiss Military Watch. It was an indestructible dive chronograph watch that was large, heavy and imposing. For this review, I have another example of their chronograph watches. In this case, the watch uses technology to emphasize on the wrist comfort through the use of titanium construction and an easy to wear rubber strap. This watch is a very reasonable 44mm in diameter, 51mm lug to lug, 12.75mm thick with a 22mm lug width. The first detail I notice on this watch is its industrial flat gray titanium case. The strap buckle is titanium and the case back is stainless steel.
It should be noted that the sides of the case, except for the lugs, are designed with what I call a automotive racing tire pattern with a tire shoulder design visible from both sides of the watch. The bezel is finished with what looks like six hex cap screws and six points for a case tool. I believe the bezel is one piece of titanium. The almost 7mm screw down crown has a well-defined gear edge and is signed with a red Swiss shield, similar to the shield on the watch face and the stainless-steel case back. The base of each pusher is also claimed to be screw down and matches the crown’s gear edge. The recessed pushers appear to have a cool anodized red washer at their base, Each watch has a different serial number. The shield, serial number and the word “sapphire” are machined in the center of the case back.
The downward turned, thick lugs combined with the lightweight titanium construction of this watch make for a very comfortable feel on my 7-inch wrist. The soft rubber 22mm to 20mm rubber strap is well set up for larger wrists while the titanium engraved buckle is unobtrusive and very nicely engraved. Molded into the strap is what appears to be a racing tire pattern, lightening holes as well as a stop for the two adjustable strap loops. I am normally not a fan of rubber straps, but this one deserves mentioning because it is so well done and not an off the shelf piece.
The black carbon fibre weave face design has red, white and silver finish with each sub dial distinctly different. There are 3, 6, 9 and 12 indices which I think adds detail to the watch face. All indices are raised with a polished silver surround. The lower layer of the face on this watch is done in a black carbon fibre weave pattern. The 10 o’clock sub dial functions as a second 24-hour time zone keeper, or GMT, as indicated below the sub dial. The 2 o’clock sub dial appears to be for tracking hours timed but actually indicates elapsed minutes. The red six o’clock wheel dial functions as the watches second hand while the central red second hand operates only when using the watch as a stop watch. There is a red and white tachymeter scale on the inner angled edge of the watch face. Surprisingly, the red indices and hands are Superluminova that turn white in the dark. My only disappointment with the face of the watch is that I believe the hour and minute hands as well as the central stop watch second hand should be in colors other than red, for better contrast. The black on white, silver framed 4 o’clock date window balances well with the rest of the face, despite losing the 4 o’clock index in the process.
Powering this watch is a Swiss ETA, model G10.962, 4 jewel quartz movement. This movement works flawlessly and smoothly. Instructions can be found online for setting the hands and sub dials correctly. The watch uses a very slightly raised flat sapphire crystal and combined with all of its other design specifications includes a 20 atm water resistance rating. It is completely capable of handling any normal water related activity. It’s unusual to find a rugged, lightweight, comfortable and very water resistant, Swiss Made, chronograph watch at a reasonable price. On the Charmex Swiss Military website the watch currently sells for $605, but it also can be found on Amazon for an amazing $225. The watch is even offered in five different face colors, depending on availability. swiss-military.net
Bert Kanne is a freelance contributor to MBWW with a love for well made dive watches and chronographs. All photos by Bert Kanne unless otherwise noted.