Montres Charmex SA is a long established Swiss watch company that I have reviewed a couple of pieces in the past. Both of those watches were chronographs of excellent quality and attention to detail and good values as well. In honor of the company’s 30th anniversary in the United States market, they will release their limited edition Murenberg Collection consisting of three watches, the Caprice, the Yola and the Jimmy. One can find more info on this collection here: The Murenberg Collection. For this review I have a pre-production sample of the Jimmy 3145, a skeletonized and engraved dress watch that measures 45mm by 12.5mm. The watch has a full anti reflective sapphire crystal on the case front AND a sapphire crystal on the case back. Together these crystals give the watch dramatic visual access to it’s inner workings, making this watch a true work of art.
The movement is a tried and true Unitas/ETA 6497 manual wind, 17 jewel taken to another level. The movements origins date back to the 1950’s. Used by numerous brands such as Glycine and Panerai, it is known for excellent strength. This makes the movement suitable for skeletonization without reducing it’s durability or performance. The 6497-1 specifications indicate this is a 46 hour power reserve movement that runs at 18,000 bph. The watch I have for this review is a display piece and does not run, but I am sure it’s a treat to see this movement in operation. The only additional items on the watch face are the Breguet style blue hour and minute hands and a very attractive index ring with extremely tasteful branding, Roman numerals and indices. Telling the time is a bit difficult due to the skeletonized face but is totally appropriate, in my opinion.
I believe this watch will be selling for around $4,000 and is a stunning example of a horological treat done right. It will be available on Kickstarter at a discount within the next few days. charmex.com
Bert Kanne is a freelance contributor to MBWW with a love for well made dive watches and chronographs. All photos by Bert Kanne unless otherwise noted.