Hello to All of you Watch Enthusiast around the globe.
Leyden Watches are coming from Netherland and to quote their website; focused on stylish but affordable timepieces. I receive one of three available options, White dial Lorentz watch but there are also Black dial and my favourite one, Blue dial with white sub-dial which, on pics, look stunning. But that is just my personal opinion, because White dial option, which I have for review is stunning too. But, let’s start from beginning and in some kind of order…
First, it is limited to 50 individually numbered pieces per colour. It has nice stainless steel case and sleek appearance with thickness of only 11.7mm overall and 39mm in diameter without the crown. Also, they will be available thru KickStarter campaign at the end of this summer. That will be the second campaign from Leyden Watches, with very successful first one. Here are a few facts and specs.
- 39mm 316L brushed and polished case
- 20mm between lugs and 42mm from lug to lug
- 11.70mm thickness with domed Sapphire crystal glass on top and inside Anti-Reflective coating
- Open screw in back case with mineral crystal
- Sellita SW216-1 hand wound movement with 19 Jewels, 28.800bph and ~41 hour power reserve
- C1 lume on dial, minute and hour hand
- 30m water resistant (3ATM)
- Leather strap 112mm+70mm with butterfly buckle with lugs thru drilled holes
- Small and simple watch box made of hard card paper with very nice design and opening feature
Dial on this watch is white and made with gloss paint technique, which gives nice milky white colour which reminds me on opacity of white email technique. Hour indexes are applied and highly polished with inserted C1 lume in the middle. Same lume is applied on minute and hour hands in thin line which will not give a long time of illumination but this watch is dressy type so this is just nice added feature to the hands. Dial is without date window complication but with small sub-dial second at 6 o’clock and black printed Leyden inscription at 12 o’clock. As I said before, there are two more dial options: all black and blue with white time second sub-dial.
Case is 39mm in diameter and made from 316L stainless steel. Bezel at top of case is bevelled and highly polished which is continued on lugs, but lugs are dual faceted with one side polished and other side brushed. Very nice. On side, the whole case is uniformly and very fine horizontally brushed from lug to lug, almost satin brushed, except between lugs where the case is brushed in vertical lines but slightly harsher than on sides. All in all, nice differences from each angle you check the watch. Lugs are very elegant and short, which gives very short lug to lug distances of only 42mm. Distance between lugs are 20mm which is practically a standard for 39mm case.
Crown is at 3 o’clock, made from 316L SS and dimensions are 5.4mm in diameter and 3.2mm wide. On top of crown is laser etched Leyden logo of two crossed keys. Crown is standard pull in/out type, usual for this type of watches. Surface of crown is coin like finished which gives a lot of commodity with handling. I find very easy to handling the crown, even with my thick barrel fingers.
Back case is open style, with mineral crystal and screw in/out. There is not much on this case back at the moment, but this is prototype and that is one of inscription at back case: 02/03 prototype v1. Other inscription writes; Leyden Lorentz. I’m sure that that will change with production model because there is enough empty space around back case.
Leather straps, at the moment are made from genuine leather in three available colours. Black, Blue and light Brown and they are relatively soft, simple and 2.5 mm thick with stamped Leyden logo on short one and stamped “LEYDEN WATCHES” longer strap. Short strap is 70 mm long and longer one is 112 mm long. Buckle is butterfly type, polished, made from 316L stainless steel with laser etched logo on top. Minimum length combined length is 130mm and maximum combined length is 170mm (short & long strap at last and first hole + closed butterfly buckle).
Movement in this watch is coming from Swiss manufacturer Sellita. SW216 is mechanical, manual winding movement with 19 jewels and daily accuracy with maximum deviation of +/-12 sec from factory specifications.
Specs in short;
- Hours, minutes and small second at 6H
- Date indicator with corrector
- Manual winding (23 turns)
- Shock Absorber is Novodiac/Incabloc
- Stop second device (hacking second)
- 28’800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
- 24 jewels
- 42 running time
From my experience, the Sellita movements as they appear to be just as good as ETA, maybe even better. The true test will come in a few years, off course, but the parts are the same or improved, and ETA parts will fit into Sellita movements to the best of my knowledge. Having said that, when you see the Sellita SW 2xx movement in a watch, it is the same movement as an ETA 28xx-2. It’s also true that the SW 200-1 makes a mockery out of the ETA2824-2 timing ad hock and the secret is a well researched hairspring technology. The hairspring in the SW-2xx-1 is quite literally dozens of microns thicker, differently shaped with tweaks in material composition, so on a high beat calibre like these, it performs with better accuracy. The hairspring maker, is not Nivarox-Far (Swatch Group), but an ancillary company and Sellita have exclusive use of their products for years to come. Also, In 2014 Sellita started production of these components in-house:
- Escape wheel
- Balance wheel
In my personal view and opinion, the only thing Sellita lack is snob appeal.
Just as side note, only problem I know, regarding the Sellita movements was tooth stripping on the hatchet wheel in SW 200 movements. This is especially bad with models that have a screw in/out crown since you will be in fact winding the watch as you screw the crown in. If the main spring is fully wound then you really have a problem.
Sellita has provided a fix with the SW 200-1 movement but fixing the SW 200 requires replacing a number of parts.
But as I said, all is rectified in SW 200-1.
I have no problem or any mayor issue with this watch. It is a clean and balanced design with an excellent movement. Dial and handset are very readable in any time of a day, ideal for office work or any evening occasion. Off course, because of 3ATM water resistance, you will need to take care of weather condition, just in case but in other hand; this is not a tool watch. I will guess it will all came to asking price for this watch because out there is a great competition between microbrands, but that is all good for us. Now, few personal notice; because this is dial without date window and used movement have date complication, it is a little bit weird to have three crown positions. Even when I quick set a time, there is date wheel jumping every 24hr and I can feel it and hear it. I would like to see or different movement from Sellita, lets say SW 210-1 without date complication or date window on dial. Benefits using a SW 210-1 are also thinner movement (3.35mm vs. 4.35mm due to lack of date complication) and with that thinner overall case. And my usual dirge regarding the provided strap…: it is short for 21cm (8 inch) wrist. Also I find that watch looks much better with metal bracelet IMHO. I had one cheap generic 20mm and with few twist and adjustments on end links I managed to install that inappropriate bracelet. Well I like it much better and I guess; with designated metal bracelet this watch my hit many sweet spots. But, I am more metal bracelet and mesh guy than leather strap, so that should be counted too.
This watch will be offered through KickStarter website in short time. Best ways to stay in the loop is probably through LEYDEN website or Leyden FaceBook page and subscribe for latest news or ask them for any other info you want to know (price, availability or even other models, etc). (Editors update: The Lorentz is now available on Kickstarter)
Happy Watch Hunting.